Birds of Paradise, part 1

My father was a florist. Flowers meant work when I was little. I’d unwrap newspaper from poinsettia plants at Christmas and lilies at Easter. Hundreds of them protected from the Connecticut cold in a old livery-stable garage behind Cherry Hill Gardens.

Now I’m so strongly drawn to flowers that they’d be #1 on my list of what I’d miss if they were gone. Here’s my not-so-secret garden:

Rockefeller Gardens, Seal Harbor, Maine

In all my years living on Mount Desert Island I had never been to the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Garden. Reservations had to be made months before for a two-hour visit to this usually private wonderland, scattered with Asian stone sculptures dating back more than 400 years. How did I miss this spot?

Stop and smell the roses…isn’t that what we’re supposed to be doing as we grow older?

Another glorious place on the way out of Northeast Harbor is Thuya Garden. A bit less secret,  it’s always open to the public. There’s a couch at one end of the exquisite formal garden that promotes quiet, either sitting there myself or with a friend. How can I not be in awe?

On my way to the couch at Thuya Garden

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A poetic salad

Candice presiding over her kitchen

“Don’t worry Sheila, you’ll get to eat,” Candice tells me. We’re drinking tea in her kitchen, talking about relationships, writing, organic produce, Portugal, friendship, the world scene.

I’ve been back home in Tucson for a week. As always, my visit with Candice on Mount Desert Island — my other home — was loaded with words. As always, it was intense.

Candice is a poet. Words coincide with everything she does, even arranging a perfect salad.

Let’s go back to the beginning. Like all my  dear friends on Mount Desert Island, I met Candice at least 20 years ago. She came into Oz Books, and with typical Candice urgency, she asked, “Would you be interested in having a writing group in the bookstore?”

“Yes,” I answered immediately. Candice, a native Mainer, had just moved to the island.  It was winter. I remember because she was wearing a very large fur hat from China, where she taught for a few years in a previous life. “Oh how perfect!,” she exclaimed.

On July 26, the day of this summer’s visit, Candice has driven from Camden where she gave a poetry reading the night before. She’s ironing pillowcases when I get to her Somesville home surrounded by woods.

“Ironing calms me down,” she says. “I just walked through the door 45 minutes ago.” The phone rings, she zips around the house. She stops to show me the most gorgeous lettuce, which she bought in Belfast on her way home to the island.

Candice washes each lettuce leaf, then carefully creates layers separated by paper towels in a glass pan that she puts in the fridge to chill. We go for a walk at the nature preserve on Indian Pt. Road, looking for seals when we reach the water (instead the mosquitoes find us).

Back at her house, we sip white wine. She starts the process of preparing the salad. Two and a half hours later, we sit down with more wine, candles lit, looking out at her garden and the woods beyond.

Candice and I are both Geminis. She calls me her  Gemini sister. We talk on the phone regularly when I’m back in Tucson. “Real-time talking” is the only way Candice communicates, even with her students at the College of the Atlantic. “Don’t even think about emailing me,” she tells them.

When it’s time to go, she thanks me for carving out a visit. “I know how busy you are when you’re here, Sheila. You’re surfing all over the island.”

Then in her own surprising way, she starts singing “Everybody’s surfing now. C’mon, let’s go surfing now…Surfing Safari with me.” She makes me laugh. Makes me think.

“I think I’ll turn on Bruce Springsteen now, maybe dance,” says Candice, as I leave for another year. Even though I never know where poetry will take me, the best part of being with old friends is that I’ll always belong.

 

 

 

 

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Haddock that jumped off the boat onto my plate!

I’ve never blogged, posted, taken photos of food. Now is the time. The photo below may look jumbled but believe me, this was a plateful of really fresh food for last night’s island supper.  Can’t help stopping at the organic Beech Hill Farm whenever I drive by.

Last night’s supper complete with sauteed squash blossom (uncooked zucchini only for visual)

Tiny new red potatoes that could almost be eaten raw (maybe some folks do?), first tomatoes of the season, purple onions that glistened with freshness, and just-the-right-size zucchini. I’m told that squash blossoms are a delicacy. People go to Beech Hill Farm asking for just the blossoms. I was adventurous, sauteing one with my veggies for dinner. Edible, yes, but I’m not sure I’d call it a delicacy.

Dessert was a piece of blueberry-rhubarb pie concocted by the good ladies of the Somesville Meeting House church, “An Open and Affirming Congregation. A Just Church.” Every Wednesday at noon piles of boxed pies appear on a table by the church on Main Street in Somesville, wreaking havoc on the already turtlely slow traffic weaving through Mount Desert Island’s picturesque first village, which was established in 1761.

I meant to save the pie for Brook and Gian’s arrival tomorrow evening. How could I? I’ve been eating it for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Shared a piece with my friend Mary D., who immediately said “yes” when I told her the “just” church ladies made it. The most likely, lardy flaky crust, the right amount of unsickly sweetness, was a perfect match of stunningly blue blueberries and recently picked rhubarb. 

local blueberries!

I promise to get another pie on Wednesday. And did I say that I’m at the Common Good Cafe across from Seawall, the entrance to Acadia National Park on the quiet side of Mt. Desert Island? For a donation you can feast on popovers and strong coffee, gaze at the fabulous ocean view and be in technology land? I’m outa here. On my way to Wonderland…

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Wild as I am

This year’s wild blueberries lined my solitary walk around Little Long Pond in Seal Harbor yesterday. Today it’s fall on Mount Desert Island — not quite 70 degrees, breezy and gorgeous.

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A few nights ago, sipping rather large “wild” blueberry/raspberry vodka drinks with friends at the Claremont boat house, one of my favorite places on the island, I felt a little wild. Maybe my wacky outfit says it all — yup, see the purple patent leather shoes I snagged at Marden’s for $2.99? 

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Have you done anything “wild” this summer? Like beauty, “wild” is in the eye of the beholder. Take Cheryl Strayed’s new book, “Wild: From Lost to Found on the Pacific Crest Trail.” Hiking more than 1,000 miles alone appeals to me — in my imagination.

It took Strayed a lot longer to write the book than her six months on the trail more than 15 years ago, when she was 27. Trudging through ice and snow, carrying her humongous pack that she deemed “Monster” on her back, was a life-affirming accomplishment of the magnitude that often carries men who were soldiers through the years. Surpassing fear and surviving.

Although Strayed didn’t think she was well-organized, she was to me, thoroughly studying her guidebook, equipping herself with the proper tools and mailing new supplies to herself along the way. I was happy when she finally got the next size hiking boots. Jeez, her feet were a mess, but she kept on going. At one point she hiked in duct-tape booties!

I admire her discipline. What I admire even more was her choice to overcome fears along the way, not that she always succeeded. When the “Three Young Bucks” (hunky young guys) she befriended on the trail name her “The Queen of the PCT” because “people always want to give you things and do things for you.” Strayed realizes, “I had nothing but generosity to report.”

I like that. And at the end of her book she discovers that you may never know what you really learned until years later.

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Literacy above water!

Big Rock in Somes Pond

Somes Pond — named after the first settler of the village of Somesville on Mount Desert Island — has the most velvety water for cooling off on a hot day. It was 93 degrees here on Saturday. Downtown Southwest Harbor (due south of Somesville) looked like the storm of the century had hit. I saw one person walking around with an ice cream cone, checking out the dozen or so shops on Main Street. Otherwise the street was deserted.

There was no question where to go for a refreshing swim when my friend Martha called.   “Meet you there in 20 minutes,” I said. And we did. Grown-ups floating on rubber rafts and with foam noodles, kids with all sorts of water-play stuff, were splashing around close to the shore.

We swam off to the giant rock about 100 yards from the edge of the water. Martha and I are known for mischievous behavior, such as — ok, I’ll admit it — dunking ourselves in the Southwest Harbor town reservoir way before Mile Rock, which is permitted.

We’re women over 60, what can I say. On Saturday we were gliding along, delighted to cool off on such an unusually sticky day, giggling about how we were both wearing our old Keens. No stepping on jagged rocks for us, or worse yet, having our feet come into contact with an eel, leech or giant snapping turtle (Martha swore that happened to somebody she knew, But I didn’t believe her.)

Our silliness continued. About halfway to the rock, swimming toward us was a guy with a paperback book held in one hand. Astonishingly, the book was dry. The swimmer/reader alternated between reading his book and swimming with his head in the water, the book held high above him. Kind of like a submarine not fully submerged.

I had to know what he was reading. “Homeland,” by R.A. Salvatore, he told us.

“Must be a really good book,” said Martha. “Helps to pass the time,” he replied, swimming by with his book held high, smiling at us. What could two voracious readers do but smile back? And keep swimming.

 

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Early morning light on Seawall Road

Wonderland down Seawall Road a bit

I’m not an early riser. But at 4:30 a.m. the birds start singing, lobster boats hum past my bedroom window as they leave the harbor, and the dark night sky awakens. I can’t help myself; it’s too beautiful for my eyes to stay closed.

For the first time I can remember, I want to know more about these birds talking. They’re different from Tucson birds. They have more to say.

In the two days I’ve been back in my Southwest Harbor home, I find myself reading in bed as the sun goes down. Last night, I discovered in the SWH Chamber of Commerce summer mag, of all places to actually learn something, that Maine “retains more naturally dark skies than any state east of the Mississippi…The island’s central granite peaks shield the southwestern ‘quietside’ of the island from the city lights of the mainland and Bar Harbor.”

Star-filled nights, northern lights and fireworks over the ocean that you can see for miles.

In the two days  I’ve been back I’ve walked Wonderland, where Martha and I lingered  on the rocks before our annual dinner at Beal’s Lobster Pound, where the lobsters are carried in traps from boat to dock to a holding tank where summer visitors get to choose their own dinner. The green speckled creatures are lively,  They’re not logy like those waiting in foggy supermarket tanks for their demise.

I had crab for my first dinner back.

My friend Judith stopped by yesterday morning when she saw a snazzy white car in my driveway with a strange license plate — New York. “Can’t I have a car with a New England license plate?” I asked Enterprise. Only if you’ll take a black one, I was told. Oh well, at least it’s not New Jersey (sorry Brook!).

I’ve walked Ship Harbor, seen around six friends (who’ve marveled at the purple streaks in my hair. One blurted, “It doesn’t look weird at all!”), went to an artist friend’s reception and started to get my house back in order. And I’ve been told at least three times how much people still miss Oz Books.

Full light: Time to go back to Wonderland — the first walk I took on the island 33 years ago. It’s always time to go back.

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Definitely not an Arizonan

Our last night on the road of a 3,500 mile two-week road trip. That’s right folks, 3,500 miles! Hip Flagstaff was the spot for the most expensive motel of the entire trip, $100. We yelped (don’t laugh, I’m learning how to do this stuff!) and consulted Trip Advisor for the last time on this long haul. Flagstaff’s Budget Inn, where we stayed, was rated #1.

Across the street was the sign below:

So who’s a real Arizonan?

Were the owners of this motel Navajo? I doubt it. Yet their sign prominently displayed an American flag and “Arizonan” at the top.

Just who is an “Arizonan?”

The plot thickens. The owners of the Budget Motel were either Indian (not Navajo) or Pakistani — most likely Muslim! Oh no!

Why would the owner of “America’s Best Inn” put “Arizonan” on their sign? I didn’t appreciate all it implied.

But even with the not so subtle right-wingedness I enjoyed being in Flagstaff. It was cool both in temperature and hipness.

See, it says “Revolution” in red on the white door below, to the right of the bike store entrance.

Yay Revolution!

Today we’re glad to be home in Tucson. We even have air conditioning. I’ll send the map of our route if you’re interested, but suffice it to say we saw all of eastern Oregon, the non-winding road by the Snake River in Idaho, some of the best parts of Utah including a strenuous hike to the Delicate Arch in Arches National Park. We drank lightweight beer (3.2 percent alcohol) at the local Moab Brewery. We opted for a Monument Valley route back to Arizona.

We avoided Nevada, a state I’ve had enough of.

In Flagstaff, I actually had a crab/artichoke/jack omelette at the fabulous La Bellavia restaurant directly across the street from the bike store. I’ve never eaten crab in a landlocked place before. The street was overrun with espresso bars and the kind serving alcoholic concoctions. No lightweight drinks here!

We’re thinking about returning to Flagstaff for a cool weekend in August, staying in one of the historic Anglo hotels downtown.

Home, even though I’ll never be a true Arizonan, Navajo or any other native type.

 

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Driving Home: Bend, Burns, Boise and Bountiful

We’re finished with two days of driving through the B places on our way back to Tucson from Eugene. Downtown Bend, Oregon, was very touristy, kinda like Bar Harbor. But Bend had the Deschutes Brewery, home of Black Butte and other unique tasty beers.

Dan enjoying two beers. Wait, he nabbed mine!

Having a beer at lunchtime made me a bit sleepy. All the better for our mostly flat, lazy drive to Burns — abiding by the 55 mile-an-hour speed limit.

Then came a surprise. The winding, nearly empty road from Burns to Ontario, Oregon, close to the Idaho border, was lush with soft green grasses dancing alongside the Malheur River. Mountains rose bearing Native American angular designs,  carved out of red rock and pine trees by wind and weather.

I’ve never seen anything like it, wish I had taken photos.

Another pleasant surprise was Boise. Bike paths everywhere. We rode 14 miles after breakfast at Goldy’s Breakfast Bistro. The salmon hash with hollandaise was yummy but the most expensive breakfast ever.

A photograph of an African woman nicknamed “Mama Goldy” used to hang at Goldy’s, according to Bon Appetit, naming the establishment one of the top ten breakfast joints in America five years ago. Underneath the photo was a Swahili inscription that meant “she gives us food.” (Don’t all mothers relate?)

But Boise, a hip place? Seemed that way. Correct me if I’m wrong.

So far I’m not thrilled with Utah. Today we yelped, consulted Trip Advisor, got stuck in Salt Lake City commuter traffic and drove around forever to find a decent place to stay. Bountiful didn’t cut it. Done with the B places. Grueling.

Finally finding an Econo-Lodge in Provo was a relief.

Ah, but tomorrow comes Moab, and the B place I enjoy most: natural beauty. Then back into Arizona, to Flagstaff. And we just got the word; our new air conditioner was installed yesterday. Home Saturday.

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Seals snoozing, eagle soaring, nibbling on Moonstruck chocolate

Seals hanging out on our beach

Wind’s howling but the sun’s shining as a bright red kite whooshes by our window. Perched high above the Pacific in our cozy cottage on the Oregon coast nothing happens and enough. Yachats — pronounced Yahaats not the Yiddish YaCHats — is called the “gem of the Oregon coast.” I’d call it the capital of the emerald green state.

Wait. There’s lots more good stuff on this coast (and the weather isn’t one). Moonstruck chocolates. I just enjoyed my third, a raspberry dark chocolate truffle. What’s a birthday week without the best? This was the silkiest, most sublime “handcrafted artisan chocolate” ever. My ingenious, wonderful daughter, Brook, ordered a tiny box of four to be delivered to this coastal gem from Portland, with elegant packaging rivaling that of Apple computers.

“Meet the Truffles,” the note inside said. Sure, I’m all for it.

Today I also met the seal family hanging out on their craggy rock homes down the beach. You can see their upstairs and downstairs locations in my little photo (I’m hooked on the iPhone camera!). Staring at each other for around 15 minutes, I realized that seals may be my favorite creatures. 

This morning we awoke to unusual sunshine and a bluer than blue sea. I took my coffee cup outside to the cabin’s tiny porch, standing above the Pacific, the beach, the seal family rocks. There, at the perfect moment, an eagle soared by.

         

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Hello ocean my old friend

It’s always been this way. The ocean has always been magical for me. First Hammonasset State Park on the Connecticut shore, then Revere beach north of Boston as a young professional in my 20s, and the one time we visited St. John’s in the Virgin Islands when the kids were little. It looked like Mt. Desert Island but without harsh winters. It felt like home.

Today I turned 66. The ocean still enthralls me. Sitting in our getaway cottage, “The Shag’s Nest,” outside of Yachats, Oregon, overlooking the massive Pacific, the sea shimmers. Waves roll in sporadically. As always. Maybe that’s why I love the sea; it changes yet it’s so dependable.

From childhood through 25 years of living in Southwest Harbor, Maine, the Atlantic sometimes roils up or freezes over in the coldest winters. But its behavior isn’t in anger or jealousy or because of any nasty habits. As Omar, my favorite character in “The Wire,” always said, “It’s how I do.” That’s what the ocean does.

Every year, if I’m anywhere near either coast, I have crabmeat for my birthday dinner. It’s how I do.

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